Simple Turquoise, Sapphire & Emerald ring

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

Turquoise takes its name from the Old French turquois, meaning “Turkish,” referring to the trade route through which it reached Europe. Mined in Afghanistan, Australia, China, the United States, Iran, Mexico and Tanzania, it ranges from deep azure to vivid green. Its colour depends on its chemistry: copper creates bluer tones, chromium and vanadium produce greens, and iron introduces a touch of yellow. Containing around 18% water, turquoise can dry out, tarnish or subtly change colour over time. Its matrix patterns — where other minerals weave through the stone — give it a uniquely organic charm. Used for over 6000 years, turquoise was cherished in Ancient Egypt; Queen Zar wore it as a protective amulet. Among Apache communities, it guided hunters and warriors. Today, it remains associated with joy, optimism and emotional stability. In contemporary jewellery, turquoise is appreciated for its vibrant hues and natural texture. Pascale Monvoisin often incorporates it for its raw beauty and distinctive presence.

Sapphire takes its name from the ancient Greek sappheiros, meaning “blue stone,” though some trace it to the Hebrew saphar, “to engrave.” Known for its exceptional resistance to scratching — second only to diamond — sapphire is used not only in fine jewellery but also in watch crystals, camera lenses and certain smartphone components. Found in the United States, Canada and various tropical regions, sapphire belongs to the corundum family. While it is most often associated with blue, its spectrum is remarkably wide: greens, purples, pinks, oranges, yellows, and the celebrated star sapphires, displaying an asterism created by multidirectional light refraction. Across traditions, sapphire symbolises truth, loyalty and strength. Its saturated colour and steady brilliance give it a quiet authority, often linked to clarity and sincerity. In contemporary jewellery, designers such as Polly Wales and Ruth Tomlinson value sapphire for its versatility and expressive palette, using it to create pieces that feel both textured and luminous.

Emerald takes its name from the Sanskrit açmagarbha, meaning “stone heart.” Rare and inherently delicate, it forms only under exceptional geological conditions, where pressure, heat and traces of chromium or vanadium converge to produce its unmistakable green. Its natural inclusions — poetically called “gardens” — are not flaws but signatures, revealing the personality and origin of each stone. Among the most sought-after curiosities is the trapiche emerald, a formation in which the crystal grows into a six-pointed star — a geological rarity prized by collectors. Across cultures, emerald has symbolised renewal, fertility, love and wisdom. Its colour — never perfectly even — appears almost alive, shifting between vivid greens and subtle blue undertones, always with depth. Contemporary designers highlight these nuances with sensitivity: Elhanati and Brooke Gregson embrace its organic variations, while Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge works with stones sourced directly from his homeland. A gemstone whose character lies not in perfection, but in the traces of time and pressure that shaped it — a green that carries its own story.

Apatite takes its name from the Greek apatē, meaning “deception,” a reference to the stone’s ability to be mistaken for other minerals such as beryl or tourmaline. Found in a wide range of colours — from soft lagoon blue to deep green, honey yellow or even violet — it is primarily sourced today from Brazil, Madagascar, Mexico and Russia. Its brightness and crystalline clarity make it a striking choice for jewellery, especially when cut into delicate cabochons or faceted stones. Because it is slightly softer than many gemstones, apatite is often used in pieces designed for occasional wear or set in protective settings. Its vivid hues, however, give it a strong visual impact and make it a favourite of contemporary designers exploring colour in refined, modern ways. Across various cultures, apatite has been attributed symbolic meanings. Some traditions believe it encourages communication, creativity or personal expression, while others associate it with clarity or emotional release. With its luminous palette and organic inclusions, apatite brings a fresh, vibrant accent to jewellery, whether used as a centre stone or in subtle tonal compositions.