Bague Œil or jaune et émail

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

Enamel is born from the meeting of glass and metal. Made of silica, mineral pigments and fluxes, it is applied in fine layers onto gold or silver before being fired at high temperatures. Under the heat, the powder melts into a smooth, glossy surface — sometimes opaque, sometimes translucent — that offers a depth of colour impossible to achieve otherwise. An ancient technique, enamel appears in Celtic, Byzantine and Persian traditions, each bringing its own interpretation: cloisonné patterns, sculpted reliefs, luminous transparencies or graphic zones of opacity. Despite its delicate appearance, enamel is remarkably durable, making it a trusted companion for jewellery meant to endure. Subtle variations, tonal shifts or tiny bubbles that may form during firing are part of its identity. They are not imperfections but witnesses of the process — marks of heat and craftsmanship that make each enamel work unique. Today, contemporary designers continue to explore its expressive potential, whether through bold colour palettes or refined minimalism. Enamel brings a stable, vibrant, almost painterly colour to jewellery, creating a dialogue between metal and material that feels both artisanal and timeless.