Simple tsavorite, coral and diamond ring

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

Coral is a marine material that grows underwater in branching, tree-like formations. Used in jewellery since antiquity, it exists in several varieties: red coral from Japan or the Mediterranean, golden coral from China, and black coral from the Pacific, all originating from reefs in warm seas. Today, its harvesting is strictly regulated to protect the ecosystems in which it thrives. Valued for its vibrant presence, coral is often used sparingly by designers who appreciate its bold colour and symbolic resonance. Commonly associated with vitality and joie de vivre, coral is also linked to confidence and courage. In various traditions, it is seen as a comforting material with protective or healing qualities. Highly prized since antiquity, it once adorned Celtic helmets, Chinese miniature talismans and the ceremonial finery of African kings. A unique material — between mineral and organic — that continues to inspire contemporary jewellery.

Tsavorite takes its name from Tsavo National Park, on the border between Kenya and Tanzania, where it was discovered in 1967 by a British geologist. A rare variety of garnet, it is prized for its exceptional transparency and its vivid green colour, whose intensity greatly influences the stone’s value. Brilliant and often almost inclusion-free, tsavorite stands out for its clarity and light. Its main deposits are located in Kenya and Tanzania. Symbolising new beginnings, tsavorite is associated with hope, positive change and emotional balance. It is said to encourage flexibility and a renewed perspective on people and situations. In contemporary jewellery, its bright, saturated green brings depth and energy to any piece. Francesca Villa uses it to illuminate her antique Chinese-inspired creations, and it also appears in our in-house line, We by WHITEbIRD, where its natural radiance adds a refined, vibrant touch.

Ruby takes its name from the Latin rubeus, meaning “red.” A member of the corundum family, it owes its vivid to deep crimson hues to traces of chromium within the crystal. Exceptionally rare, ruby is among the most coveted gemstones, with the majority of the world’s finest stones still originating from Burma. Introduced around 500 BC by the Etruscans and Greeks, ruby has long been associated with strength, leadership and protection. Across cultures, it is believed to calm anxiety and reinforce courage. Its fiery colour gives ruby its unmistakable character. The value of a ruby depends on the saturation of its hue, its clarity and the nature of its inclusions — subtle internal features that serve as the stone’s natural signature. The most esteemed colour grade, known as “pigeon’s blood,” remains extraordinarily rare. In contemporary jewellery, its intensity captivates designers such as Karen Liberman, Cathy Waterman and Yasuko Azuma, who highlight its rich glow and magnetic presence. A gemstone whose visual power endures through time.

A diamond has long been seen as pure light made solid — a material shaped deep within the earth, revealed through cut, proportion and care. To a jeweller, every facet is a choice, every reflection a quiet exchange between the stone and the hand that guides it. Traditionally celebrated in its colourless form, the diamond today speaks in a much broader, more expressive language. The 4Cs — Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat — remain essential markers of quality: colour graded from D to Z, clarity from FL to VS, the precision of the cut, the weight measured in carats. Yet these criteria no longer define beauty in absolute terms. Designers and collectors increasingly embrace shades beyond classic white: warm browns, subtle yellows, soft greys, frosted tones, and stones with delicate inclusions. Features once labeled as imperfections now offer character, depth and a sense of authenticity. These singularities trace the story of each diamond — its growth, its internal tensions, the minerals encountered along the way. They remind us that a diamond is not only a symbol but a living material shaped by time. Whether perfectly clear or crossed by a gentle haze, the diamond continues to embody precision, endurance and emotion. A light that no longer strives for flawless uniformity, but embraces the truth and beauty of its own individuality.