Feu d'artifice sapphire, emerald and tourmaline ring

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

Topaz takes its name from the Greek topazios, referring to an island in the Red Sea where it was believed to have been found in antiquity. Its colour range is among the widest in the mineral world: pale to deep blues, golden yellows, soft pinks, champagne tones and even colourless varieties. Major deposits are located in Brazil, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nigeria and Russia. Many stones display a clean, glass-like brilliance that highlights the precision of their cut. Associated with clarity, confidence and emotional calm, topaz is often seen as a soothing stone. Its crisp luminosity, sometimes touched with icy reflections, gives it a quietly radiant presence in contemporary jewellery. A versatile and refined gemstone, capable of expressing both the freshness of a cool blue and the warmth of a golden hue.

Tsavorite takes its name from Tsavo National Park, on the border between Kenya and Tanzania, where it was discovered in 1967 by a British geologist. A rare variety of garnet, it is prized for its exceptional transparency and its vivid green colour, whose intensity greatly influences the stone’s value. Brilliant and often almost inclusion-free, tsavorite stands out for its clarity and light. Its main deposits are located in Kenya and Tanzania. Symbolising new beginnings, tsavorite is associated with hope, positive change and emotional balance. It is said to encourage flexibility and a renewed perspective on people and situations. In contemporary jewellery, its bright, saturated green brings depth and energy to any piece. Francesca Villa uses it to illuminate her antique Chinese-inspired creations, and it also appears in our in-house line, We by WHITEbIRD, where its natural radiance adds a refined, vibrant touch.

Sapphire takes its name from the ancient Greek sappheiros, meaning “blue stone,” though some trace it to the Hebrew saphar, “to engrave.” Known for its exceptional resistance to scratching — second only to diamond — sapphire is used not only in fine jewellery but also in watch crystals, camera lenses and certain smartphone components. Found in the United States, Canada and various tropical regions, sapphire belongs to the corundum family. While it is most often associated with blue, its spectrum is remarkably wide: greens, purples, pinks, oranges, yellows, and the celebrated star sapphires, displaying an asterism created by multidirectional light refraction. Across traditions, sapphire symbolises truth, loyalty and strength. Its saturated colour and steady brilliance give it a quiet authority, often linked to clarity and sincerity. In contemporary jewellery, designers such as Polly Wales and Ruth Tomlinson value sapphire for its versatility and expressive palette, using it to create pieces that feel both textured and luminous.

Tourmaline takes its name from the Sinhalese turmali, meaning “stone of mixed colours,” a fitting tribute to its remarkable diversity — more than thirty varieties ranging from subtle hues to striking colour combinations. Among them are elbaite, which can appear colourless, blue, green or pink, and the sought-after “watermelon” tourmaline with its pink centre and green rim. Found in Afghanistan, Mozambique, Brazil, Madagascar, Russia and the United States, tourmaline is one of the most versatile gemstones in the mineral kingdom. Across cultures, it is associated with protection and balance. In parts of Africa, among Native American communities and within Australian Aboriginal traditions, it is regarded as a talisman capable of absorbing negative energy. In contemporary jewellery, its vibrant palette appeals to every sensibility. Our designers love the way its colours recall a collection of precious confections — a joyful, expressive and endlessly varied stone.

Spinel takes its name from the Latin spinella, meaning “little thorn,” in reference to the sharply edged shape of its crystals. Long overlooked, it was often mistaken for ruby or sapphire, as its colours can be equally vivid. Today, spinel is recognised as a gemstone in its own right, valued for the breadth of its palette: red spinel, cobalt-blue spinel, lavender and purple spinels, pink and “fancy” varieties, the rare star spinel, and the refined, timeless black spinel. Major deposits are found in Madagascar, Burma, Afghanistan, Vietnam and Tanzania. Spinel has a longstanding connection with royalty: the 353-carat World Tribute is housed in Buckingham Palace; two large spinels belonging to Anne of Brittany once formed part of the French crown jewels before their disappearance; in Russia, a 414-carat spinel crowns Catherine the Great’s regalia, preserved in the Kremlin Armoury. Iran also holds a remarkable collection of around one hundred spinels. Traditionally considered a protective stone, spinel is associated with courage and emotional balance, and is sometimes said to encourage healthy detachment. In contemporary jewellery, its wide range of hues appeals to designers such as Alice Waese and Dorette, who value its clean brilliance, depth and inherently modern character.

Lesser-known yet deeply compelling, chrysoberyl stands out for its unmistakable brightness. Its name comes from the Greek chrysos (“gold”) and beryllos, echoing both its golden glow and its structural kinship with beryl. Colours range from lemon yellow to soft golden green, often marked by a clear, almost glassy luminosity. Sourced mainly from Brazil, Sri Lanka and Madagascar, chrysoberyl forms within pegmatites and metamorphic rocks. Some rare varieties — such as alexandrite, a unique form of chrysoberyl — display remarkable optical effects, but even its more understated expressions retain a strong visual presence. Historically, the stone has often been associated with clarity and determination. Across cultures, it is seen as a gemstone linked to focus and inner precision. With its clean colour and confident radiance, chrysoberyl continues to appeal to contemporary jewellery designers seeking a distinctive, luminous stone with a modern edge.

Ruby takes its name from the Latin rubeus, meaning “red.” A member of the corundum family, it owes its vivid to deep crimson hues to traces of chromium within the crystal. Exceptionally rare, ruby is among the most coveted gemstones, with the majority of the world’s finest stones still originating from Burma. Introduced around 500 BC by the Etruscans and Greeks, ruby has long been associated with strength, leadership and protection. Across cultures, it is believed to calm anxiety and reinforce courage. Its fiery colour gives ruby its unmistakable character. The value of a ruby depends on the saturation of its hue, its clarity and the nature of its inclusions — subtle internal features that serve as the stone’s natural signature. The most esteemed colour grade, known as “pigeon’s blood,” remains extraordinarily rare. In contemporary jewellery, its intensity captivates designers such as Karen Liberman, Cathy Waterman and Yasuko Azuma, who highlight its rich glow and magnetic presence. A gemstone whose visual power endures through time.

Emerald takes its name from the Sanskrit açmagarbha, meaning “stone heart.” Rare and inherently delicate, it forms only under exceptional geological conditions, where pressure, heat and traces of chromium or vanadium converge to produce its unmistakable green. Its natural inclusions — poetically called “gardens” — are not flaws but signatures, revealing the personality and origin of each stone. Among the most sought-after curiosities is the trapiche emerald, a formation in which the crystal grows into a six-pointed star — a geological rarity prized by collectors. Across cultures, emerald has symbolised renewal, fertility, love and wisdom. Its colour — never perfectly even — appears almost alive, shifting between vivid greens and subtle blue undertones, always with depth. Contemporary designers highlight these nuances with sensitivity: Elhanati and Brooke Gregson embrace its organic variations, while Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge works with stones sourced directly from his homeland. A gemstone whose character lies not in perfection, but in the traces of time and pressure that shaped it — a green that carries its own story.