Souriant yellow gold and amethyst bracelet

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

The purple colour of amethyst has inspired stories for centuries. Its name comes from the Greek a-methustos, meaning “not intoxicated,” and is linked to the legend of the nymph Amethystos. To protect her from the unwanted advances of Dionysus, god of wine, she was turned into rock crystal; enraged, Dionysus spilled his cup of wine over her, staining the stone with a deep violet hue. Once considered rare in antiquity, amethyst was later discovered in large deposits in Brazil and Mexico, and subsequently in Belgium, France, Madagascar, Finland and Canada. Admired by the Etruscans and Egyptians for its ornamental beauty, it remained for centuries a material reserved for royalty and high religious figures. Today, its colour and luminosity make it a favourite among designers such as Ivarene, Dorette and Lena Skadegard. Across various cultures, amethyst is associated with symbolic meanings. Some traditions believe it can help ease fear, stress or anger, and support a sense of calm or clarity. It is also sometimes linked with ideas of purification.

Spinel takes its name from the Latin spinella, meaning “little thorn,” in reference to the sharply edged shape of its crystals. Long overlooked, it was often mistaken for ruby or sapphire, as its colours can be equally vivid. Today, spinel is recognised as a gemstone in its own right, valued for the breadth of its palette: red spinel, cobalt-blue spinel, lavender and purple spinels, pink and “fancy” varieties, the rare star spinel, and the refined, timeless black spinel. Major deposits are found in Madagascar, Burma, Afghanistan, Vietnam and Tanzania. Spinel has a longstanding connection with royalty: the 353-carat World Tribute is housed in Buckingham Palace; two large spinels belonging to Anne of Brittany once formed part of the French crown jewels before their disappearance; in Russia, a 414-carat spinel crowns Catherine the Great’s regalia, preserved in the Kremlin Armoury. Iran also holds a remarkable collection of around one hundred spinels. Traditionally considered a protective stone, spinel is associated with courage and emotional balance, and is sometimes said to encourage healthy detachment. In contemporary jewellery, its wide range of hues appeals to designers such as Alice Waese and Dorette, who value its clean brilliance, depth and inherently modern character.

Sapphire takes its name from the ancient Greek sappheiros, meaning “blue stone,” though some trace it to the Hebrew saphar, “to engrave.” Known for its exceptional resistance to scratching — second only to diamond — sapphire is used not only in fine jewellery but also in watch crystals, camera lenses and certain smartphone components. Found in the United States, Canada and various tropical regions, sapphire belongs to the corundum family. While it is most often associated with blue, its spectrum is remarkably wide: greens, purples, pinks, oranges, yellows, and the celebrated star sapphires, displaying an asterism created by multidirectional light refraction. Across traditions, sapphire symbolises truth, loyalty and strength. Its saturated colour and steady brilliance give it a quiet authority, often linked to clarity and sincerity. In contemporary jewellery, designers such as Polly Wales and Ruth Tomlinson value sapphire for its versatility and expressive palette, using it to create pieces that feel both textured and luminous.

Tourmaline takes its name from the Sinhalese turmali, meaning “stone of mixed colours,” a fitting tribute to its remarkable diversity — more than thirty varieties ranging from subtle hues to striking colour combinations. Among them are elbaite, which can appear colourless, blue, green or pink, and the sought-after “watermelon” tourmaline with its pink centre and green rim. Found in Afghanistan, Mozambique, Brazil, Madagascar, Russia and the United States, tourmaline is one of the most versatile gemstones in the mineral kingdom. Across cultures, it is associated with protection and balance. In parts of Africa, among Native American communities and within Australian Aboriginal traditions, it is regarded as a talisman capable of absorbing negative energy. In contemporary jewellery, its vibrant palette appeals to every sensibility. Our designers love the way its colours recall a collection of precious confections — a joyful, expressive and endlessly varied stone.

Tanzanite takes its name from Tanzania, where it was discovered in the 1960s after storms around Mount Kilimanjaro. Originally brownish, it develops its blue-violet colour when exposed to heat. A trichroic gemstone, it can display blue, violet and bronze tones depending on the crystal’s orientation. Some fancy tanzanites even show striking multicoloured flashes. Found only in a 20 km² area in northern Tanzania, it is one of the rarest gemstones in the world. The Queen of Kilimanjaro, a 242-carat tanzanite set by Tiffany, remains its most famous example. Associated with creativity and self-expression, tanzanite inspires designers such as Brooke Gregson and Pippa Small, who value its balance of depth and softness.

Ruby takes its name from the Latin rubeus, meaning “red.” A member of the corundum family, it owes its vivid to deep crimson hues to traces of chromium within the crystal. Exceptionally rare, ruby is among the most coveted gemstones, with the majority of the world’s finest stones still originating from Burma. Introduced around 500 BC by the Etruscans and Greeks, ruby has long been associated with strength, leadership and protection. Across cultures, it is believed to calm anxiety and reinforce courage. Its fiery colour gives ruby its unmistakable character. The value of a ruby depends on the saturation of its hue, its clarity and the nature of its inclusions — subtle internal features that serve as the stone’s natural signature. The most esteemed colour grade, known as “pigeon’s blood,” remains extraordinarily rare. In contemporary jewellery, its intensity captivates designers such as Karen Liberman, Cathy Waterman and Yasuko Azuma, who highlight its rich glow and magnetic presence. A gemstone whose visual power endures through time.

Carnelian is a warm-toned variety of quartz, ranging from translucent orange to deeper reddish-brown hues. Its colour comes from traces of iron within the mineral, giving the stone its gentle, almost velvety glow. Found since antiquity in regions such as India, Brazil and the Arabian Peninsula, carnelian was widely used for seals, talismans and jewellery. Its durability and fine grain made it a favourite material for intaglio engraving in Greek and Roman cultures. Across different traditions, the stone has been associated with vitality, courage and inner grounding. Its natural warmth and lively reflections contribute to this sense of energy and presence. Today, carnelian continues to attract designers who value its sunlit colour and smooth, expressive character — a gemstone with both depth and radiance.