Simple tourmaline, turquoise and emerald ring

Silver is a precious metal that takes its name from the Latin word for shiny, argentum. After having been a resource of great value in Greece and Crete during Antiquity, silver was subsequently extracted largely in Spain, and later in central Europe. In the 19th century, thanks to numerous advances in production (including the technique of drilling by steam engines and the improvement of transport), many silver mines were discovered and exploited throughout the world. Today, silver is found in the form of veins and nuggets mainly in Mexico, Peru, Australia and China. In traditional jewellery-making, silver is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium which gives it a more homogeneous and stable colour over time. But today designers favour its natural colour and rarely "rhodium" their silver pieces. Instead, they set it with stones and allow it to oxidise for a modern and elegant look. Like gold, silver is malleable. It is therefore impossible to use it at 100% purity for the creation of jewellery. In France, silver is recognised as a precious metal from 800 thousandths of pure silver in the alloy. However, the silver most commonly used in jewellery is 925 thousandths, that is to say an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver. Different hallmarks are used to classify silver according to its purity. The 925 thousandths silver is marked by a Minerva head. Alloys made up of 80% pure silver are represented by a head of Minerva followed by the number 2. Silver jewellery tends to oxidise on contact with oxygen in the air. This natural oxidation disappears quite easily with specific products for silverware. These must be applied with a soft cloth, then rinsed and dried. At WHITEbIRD, designer Sophie Buhai’s sculptural and often voluminous pieces inspired by the modernist tradition put silver in the spotlight. De Jaegher also use silver in their precious jewellery.

Tourmaline takes its name from the Sinhalese turmali, meaning “stone of mixed colours,” a fitting tribute to its remarkable diversity — more than thirty varieties ranging from subtle hues to striking colour combinations. Among them are elbaite, which can appear colourless, blue, green or pink, and the sought-after “watermelon” tourmaline with its pink centre and green rim. Found in Afghanistan, Mozambique, Brazil, Madagascar, Russia and the United States, tourmaline is one of the most versatile gemstones in the mineral kingdom. Across cultures, it is associated with protection and balance. In parts of Africa, among Native American communities and within Australian Aboriginal traditions, it is regarded as a talisman capable of absorbing negative energy. In contemporary jewellery, its vibrant palette appeals to every sensibility. Our designers love the way its colours recall a collection of precious confections — a joyful, expressive and endlessly varied stone.

Turquoise takes its name from the Old French turquois, meaning “Turkish,” referring to the trade route through which it reached Europe. Mined in Afghanistan, Australia, China, the United States, Iran, Mexico and Tanzania, it ranges from deep azure to vivid green. Its colour depends on its chemistry: copper creates bluer tones, chromium and vanadium produce greens, and iron introduces a touch of yellow. Containing around 18% water, turquoise can dry out, tarnish or subtly change colour over time. Its matrix patterns — where other minerals weave through the stone — give it a uniquely organic charm. Used for over 6000 years, turquoise was cherished in Ancient Egypt; Queen Zar wore it as a protective amulet. Among Apache communities, it guided hunters and warriors. Today, it remains associated with joy, optimism and emotional stability. In contemporary jewellery, turquoise is appreciated for its vibrant hues and natural texture. Pascale Monvoisin often incorporates it for its raw beauty and distinctive presence.

Emerald takes its name from the Sanskrit açmagarbha, meaning “stone heart.” Rare and inherently delicate, it forms only under exceptional geological conditions, where pressure, heat and traces of chromium or vanadium converge to produce its unmistakable green. Its natural inclusions — poetically called “gardens” — are not flaws but signatures, revealing the personality and origin of each stone. Among the most sought-after curiosities is the trapiche emerald, a formation in which the crystal grows into a six-pointed star — a geological rarity prized by collectors. Across cultures, emerald has symbolised renewal, fertility, love and wisdom. Its colour — never perfectly even — appears almost alive, shifting between vivid greens and subtle blue undertones, always with depth. Contemporary designers highlight these nuances with sensitivity: Elhanati and Brooke Gregson embrace its organic variations, while Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge works with stones sourced directly from his homeland. A gemstone whose character lies not in perfection, but in the traces of time and pressure that shaped it — a green that carries its own story.

Lesser-known yet deeply compelling, chrysoberyl stands out for its unmistakable brightness. Its name comes from the Greek chrysos (“gold”) and beryllos, echoing both its golden glow and its structural kinship with beryl. Colours range from lemon yellow to soft golden green, often marked by a clear, almost glassy luminosity. Sourced mainly from Brazil, Sri Lanka and Madagascar, chrysoberyl forms within pegmatites and metamorphic rocks. Some rare varieties — such as alexandrite, a unique form of chrysoberyl — display remarkable optical effects, but even its more understated expressions retain a strong visual presence. Historically, the stone has often been associated with clarity and determination. Across cultures, it is seen as a gemstone linked to focus and inner precision. With its clean colour and confident radiance, chrysoberyl continues to appeal to contemporary jewellery designers seeking a distinctive, luminous stone with a modern edge.