Karen Liberman

Karen Liberman is among the first designers to be showcased at WHITEbIRD. Settled in Australia, where she grew up, she sketches her future designs and then embellishes them with hand-selected precious stones from renowned lapidaries and ancient artifacts, like coins, chosen for their individual character and beauty. 

In light of the trunk show from May 21 to June 1, we've asked her a few questions: 

 1. Can you introduce yourself to those who might not yet know you?
I am a jewellery designer, mother to three wonderful humans, garden enthusiast and avid traveller. I have always appreciated design and objects of beauty that evoke emotion, connection and contemplation. 

2. What's your connection to jewelry-making? What was the first piece you created?
After having my 3 children, my greatest achievement and gift in life, I wanted to explore and channel my creativity in the hope that one day it could play a major part in my career. 
The first piece of jewellery I designed 12 years ago was in Jaipur India. It was a ring in high karat 22k gold using ancient Indian techniques of Kundan whereby mostly diamonds are set within other gemstones using gold foil in between. Traditionally, kundan jewellery includes very detailed and intricate motifs. This particular piece I designed was an emerald with polki rubies in the shape of leaves which were set using gold foil, then the emerald was set in a 22k tradition Indian ring design. 

3. Can you tell us about your background and your journey? 
I completed a course in landscape design, viticulture, wrote and produced a family memoir/cookbook which I personally photographed and eventually arrived at jewellery design after a hand made high karat gold ring was gifted to me. The concept of creating one of a kind, handmade fine jewellery that could reflect my ideals of a natural and layered beauty was very appealing and exciting. 

4. The use of ancient coins has become your signature; can you tell us about the role of the past in your creations? 
Incorporating these elements into my design process anchors my pieces to the past. There is often a story to be told, a sense of mystery and a unique charm that I find mesmerising. 

5. What do you think about when creating a piece of jewelry? Where do you find your inspiration? 

 From the beginning of this journey, designing jewellery felt like a very organic way for me to express myself and create pieces that reflect a very earthed, layered and natural beauty. Antiquity has been a great source of inspiration. Ancient goldsmithing techniques, antique coins from bygone civilisations and antique beads, intaglios and cameos.  
Nature and landscapes play a big part in influencing my work. Colour palette, fine magical detail and layering of texture, all combine to create the harmonious beauty that is nature.

In the last few years, I have been spending more time in the coastal town of Byron Bay. In this new collection, many of the gemstones I have chosen such as calcedony, moonstone and Australian opal are reminiscent of my time in this landscape particularly the colour of the sky during and after sunset. 
The result is a layering of gemstones with colours of beautiful Byron Bay skies and antique elements such as gemstones cut like ancient Egyptian scarabs, lovely antique coins, set by hand and detailed in gold. This process of layering has always been an integral part of my design process.

6. The concept of 'elsewhere' seems significant in your creative process, could you tell us more about that? 
I have always loved physically travelling and exploring different cultures and traditions as well as travelling in my mind to other worlds and places. One could say I am a dreamer, I search for beauty, it is my way of connecting to life and being alive. I have suRered profound loss at a very young age and connecting to beauty in this way, keeps me tender and grounded. 

7. You've written a cookbook, "Alegria," exploring your family's culinary traditions. Can you share more about it? What role does cooking play in your life? 
My cookbook Alegria was a true labour of love. It was a book I dedicated to my beautiful Moroccan mother and her family. It was my way of facing loss in a graceful way. Honouring her and loving her through cooking is my way of continuing her legacy. A gift I wanted to give my children, a sense of connection to their history and family through food.

8. What would you have done if you weren't a jewelry designer? 
Creating brings me so much joy and I hope to be able to do this for many more years to come, I feel I have been blessed with this gift and am very grateful for the people that encourage me, collaborate with me and appreciate my work. It honestly is an expression of my heart and soul. If I was not able to create jewellery I would love to work in nature, creating gardens, perhaps a florist or volunteer in a public garden such as the Botanical gardens. 

 9. Who are your favorite artists? What kind of music do you listen to work in your studio ? 
Some of my favourite artists are Gustav Klimt the Austrian painter, Joshua Yeldham an Australian artist and Hilda Klimt. My daughter and I both share a love of travel , we love planning adventures together and after Paris we will visit Vienna and look forwards to seeing Klimt’s work at the Belvedere Gallery. 

10. What advice would you give to a young designer eager to start their own journey? 
My advice to a young jewellery designer would be to be guided by their inner voice and create from that place. I think there is a lot of noise in the world we live in today and we need more introspection and authenticity.